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Horseback Riding Hell

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 This was quite an adventure, a 25 minute Uber to Envigado in the suburbs, then Joshua drove us to Caldas, about 1/2 hour away.  He introduced us to his animals, very sweet with the horses. There was spectacular scenery in the mountains. But, you ask, how was it? Three hours of hell. Let me explain . . . I have a yearslong problem with my left ear, and that affects my balance.  I'm fine with just walking around or driving, but anything where you have to constantly adjust your balance, like riding a bike, is a challenge. On a horse you are constantly jockeying (SWIDT?) for position.  I can't do that, so had to constantly clutch onto the saddle so I didn't fall.  That means you can't fall into the natural rhythm of the horse, and every step hurts.  And when I get tireder, my balance gets worse. Anyways we walked the last 20 minutes.
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Salchipapas

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 It's a tradItional Colombian dish, perfect after a night of drinking or otherwise :).  Imagine a layer of French fries, with sliced hot dogs then . . . (the name comes from "salchicha" sausage/ hot dog + "papas" potatoes) I always get the "especial," which has mini-sausages, Colombian bacon, and quail eggs. It looks a bit of a crime scene once you tuck in, but oh so yum! And pretty good pizza, bacon, corn and cheese!
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Santa Fe de Antioquia (II)

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 Santa Fe's one claim to fame is the Puente Colgante de Occidente, the West Suspension Bridge, at the time of its completion (1895) the longest suspension bridge in S. America.  You can walk along the side, like Andrés, or take the center.  Even after the recent renovation, only motocarros/tuktuks are allowed to cross. Suspension piers: Just a few blocks away, there are spectacular views: We took an Uber 210,000 COP from Medellín, but impossible to get one back, so we went for lunch instead!  Peruvian food. I had a delicious shrimp causa (mashed potato tower) and Andrés had the seafood risotto. It was a sweaty walk (have I mentioned that it was HOT in Santa Fe?) to the bus station, but a nice air conditioned ride then just a taxi, back where we started from.
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Santa Fe de Antioquia (I)

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 We went on an over-night trip to Santa Fe, a "pueblo" (28k inhabitants) about an hour from Medellín. The hotel was nice, with not one but two jacuzzis, but we didn't take advantage of either. Santa Fe is in a valley, so there are mountains all around, spectacular views. What to do in Santa Fe?  Not much, really, just wander around and admire the Colonial architecture and the beautifully painted buildings. The main square and obligatory church: Stay tuned for part two!
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Rice Pudding Store

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 Surely the one and only store that sells rice pudding and nothing but rice pudding?  Okay, bottled water too, but that doesn't really count. It's delicious, the rice soft and creamy, the reduced milk thick and unctuous.  But wait, there's more!  Little chunks of fresh Colombian cheese, which act as a nice textural foil and provide a balance to the sweetness. $2.50 for a I pint container.  I'll be back!
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Great meals

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#1. I've had a few great meals recently, including this one at La Causa, which is a Peruvian restaurant.  A "causa" is just a tower of mashed potatoes, which sounds (and is!) pretty basic, so it's the pluses that make the dish. Very attractive restaurant: I got the "Patriota Tricolor," so named for the red-white-red of the Peruvian flag. "A trio of towers of mashed Peruvian potatoes.  Chicken in creamy mayonnaise sauce and leche de tigre, with a touch of onion.  Grilled octopus with eastern chimichurri.  Tempura shrimp bathed in spicy sauce with caviar and a touch of cilantro." This was delicious, each tower moreso than the last.  Better than in Peru! For 42,500 COP ($12 USD) an incredible bargain!  
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Party Bus + Parque Lleras

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 Party bus!!!! Yep, you guessed it, it's a bus that drives around while you party, or par-tay.  Highly decorated, but no windows, which makes it interesting when it rains, which it did. Immediately upon arrival you're given a beer and a hot empanada snack, then everyone (including me!) dances. We stopped off for a snack: Third snack, another ceviche de chicharrón, delicious! After the party bus we went to Parque Lleras, well known for passport bros, sex-pats and, ahem, "working" women.  Not that there's anything wrong with that!   Every market has its place 😏 We went to a bar to finish the evening.  I had a surprisingly good porter and Andrés his first Moscow Mule, also very good.  But!  $33, welcome to tourist prices.
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